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Go cigar shopping in El Paso

Follow the winding road over Las Cumbres Mountains to this delightful little village, right in the centre of the island. Don’t miss the 18th-century chapel with a tongue-twister of a name – the Ermita de la Virgen de la Concepcion de la Bonanza. Once you’ve got past that hurdle, look heavenwards at the altar and you’ll find a gorgeous mudéjar ceiling. The village is also known for its silk and handmade cigars.

Further Reading

  • Overview
  • Travel Advice
  • An old Spanish galleon parked up in the middle of a street isn’t something you see every day, but it’s exactly what awaits in Plaza de Alameda in Santa Cruz de La Palma. The ship is, in fact, a replica of the Santa Maria – the vessel Christopher Columbus used to sail to the Americas. Step inside and you’ll find it’s been converted into a little museum, complete with old maritime maps, charts and instruments.

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    Taking place in Tazacorte, this event is held in honour of La Palma’s patron saint. The highlight of the festival is the Dance of the Fufo Horses, when men ride colourful papier-mâché horses through the streets.

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    Before the Spanish arrived in the 15th century, La Palma was inhabited by the Benahoares. At this cultural park, an hour from Los Cancajos, you can find out all about their way of life, right down to their burial practices. The highlight, though, is the rock carvings that were discovered here in the early Forties. They mainly consist of circles, spirals and stick men but their meaning remains a total mystery.

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    This isn’t a beach in the strictest sense of the word. The Piscinas de la Fajana, in Barlovento, an hour’s drive north of La Cancajos, are a series of sea water swimming pools and bathing platforms. They’re a big hit with the locals and a great chance to get back to nature.

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    South of Puerto Naos, Charco Verde Beach is a little more no-frills than its island counterparts. There are a few sunloungers on the sand, but it’s far from cluttered, and the main source of refreshments is a seaside kiosk selling drinks and ice-creams.

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    This festival takes place in Tijarafe on the northwest coast of Las Palma. The festivities start in the early evening with salsa dancing in the main square. But the main event happens in the early hours of the morning. Dancers dressed as giants appear, and then a spark-spraying devil character enters the scene amid a confetti of fireworks and flames.

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    Half an hour’s drive from Fuencaliente, Tazacorte Beach claims to be the warmest place on the island. Its stretch of volcanic sand is edged by a promenade, which plays host to several fish restaurants serving up the day’s catch. There’s also a small fishing harbour here.

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    This street in Santa Cruz de La Palma serves up a 2-for-1 photo opportunity. At one end of the seafront boulevard stands a twisted and gnarled dragon tree, one of the most unusual plants you’re ever likely to see. At the other you’ll find the famous Casas de los Balcones – a quaint row of traditional Canarian houses, known for their overhanging wooden balconies.

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    The coastline around the southwest of La Palma is home to 2 marine conservation areas, one inside the other. Diving is allowed in the blue zone with the appropriate permit. On dry land, you’ll find the Marine Reserve Interpretation Centre. Set in Fuencaliente’s old lighthouse, its displays tell you all about life beneath the waves and the issues facing the creatures of the deep.

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    This church is one of Santa Cruz’s star attractions. Adorned with an elegant monumental façade, it’s one of the best examples of Renaissance architecture in the Canaries. Inside it’s just as beautiful – it features a honeycomb-like ceiling reminiscent of the Alhambra Palace. Plus it’s home to a Flemish carving of the crucifixion that dates back to the 16th century.

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    Los Cancajos Beach is a bit of a crowd pleaser. Foodies rate the restaurants that sidle up to the volcanic sands. The menu at most of them revolves around fresh fish like tuna and gallo. Dive enthusiasts, meanwhile, rave about the underwater coves that can be explored off the coast.

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    This national park, half an hour’s drive from Los Cancajos, is actually a volcanic crater and, with a circumference of 28 kilometres, it’s the biggest one in the world. To put that into perspective, imagine two and a half thousand double-decker buses parked end to end in a circle. Now visualise eight Big Bens stacked on top of each other and you’ll have some idea of just how deep it is, too.

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    At nearly 8,000 feet high, this is La Palma’s highest peak. It’s part of La Caldera de Taburiente National Park and there’s a trail you can follow up the slopes. An astronomical observatory, with 6 enormous telescopes, has been set up along the roads around the Roque de los Muchachos. Once a year all the lights are switched off across the entire island to help with the star-gazing.

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    With regular ferries leaving from Santa Cruz, you can easily check out some of La Palma’s brothers and sisters. Take your pick from the lesser-known islands, like La Gomera or El Hierro, or think big and hop over to the holiday titan that is Tenerife. It’s where the locals go when they’re in need of a shot of retail therapy or nightlife.

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    With its twisting backstreets, old colonial mansions and Renaissance churches, Santa Cruz, La Palma’s capital, is one of the Canary Islands’ prettiest towns. In the 16th century, Santa Cruz was one of the most important ports in the Spanish Empire, and reminders of the glory days are everywhere.

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    The stretch of sand at Puerto Naos is one of the longest in La Palma. It’s runs for half a kilometre and is backed by a line of palms, which serve as welcome shade during the hottest times of the day. There are a handful of sunloungers on the beach, but not enough to crowd the sand.

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