Things To Do in Kefalonia

Vatsa Beach is something of a well-kept secret in these parts. A tiny arc of golden sand tucked away in the sleepy village of Lixouri, just outside Lassi, it tends to only welcome a few locals at a time. There aren’t any facilities to speak of, except for an old taverna with an all-Greek menu.

If you can brave the hairpin bends that lead to Assos, you’re in for a nice surprise. This picturesque little village north of Myrtos Bay exudes Greek charm. At first glance, it seems to be made up of just a few old houses that huddle around the water’s edge. But look closer and you’ll spot the remains of a Venetian castle nestled in its horseshoe harbour.

This monastery, about 10 minutes’ drive from Argostoli, was almost completely destroyed by the 1953 earthquake. But some might say that was a blessing in disguise. The tremors took chunks of plaster off the walls of the monastery, unveiling some incredible 16th-century frescoes. The place was restored as a museum and, today, it shelters icons and frescoes from churches all over the island.

In the year 2000, the small town of Sami, half an hour from Lassi, was invaded by Hollywood for the filming of Captain Corelli’s Mandolin. The front of the town became the Argostoli waterfront, and a replica of the old town was created in the main square. But there’s more to this place than Tinseltown shine. It’s still a working fishing village, and offers up a real insight into traditional Greek life.

The word ‘breathtaking’ is bandied about so much it seems to have lost its impact. But Melissani Lake is deserving of the adjective. Discovered in 1951, it’s 22 metres below ground and 30 metres deep. A century earlier, an earthquake shook the cave and collapsed the roof, leaving a massive hole in the ceiling. Hop on a boat and let a guide steer you through the electric-blue waters.

The feast of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary kicks off Kefalonia’s season of summer festivals. It’s a national bank holiday, so every town and village gets in on the celebrations. Markopoulo leads the way, playing host to the traditional snake festival. For 10 days, small, harmless snakes slither their way to the town church, only to disappear on the big day itself. Legend has it these fork-tongued creatures were once nuns, transformed by the Virgin to escape a pirate attack. To mark the occasion, locals celebrate with singing, dancing and a banquet.

Every Kefalonia wine menu worth its salt will offer you a glass of crisp Robola. It’s the A-lister of Greek white wine and the grape is grown all over the island. One of the main wineries is the Robola Wine Co-operative, set in the beautiful Omala Valley, around half an hour from Lassi. Pay a visit to find out what goes on behind the scenes and to enjoy a tasting session.

Antisamos Beach is a photographer’s dream. It’s tucked away among pine-cloaked hills, about a 45-minute drive from Skala. Thanks to the surrounding countryside, it’s lovely and quiet, although a sprinkling of tavernas behind the sands give it a bit of atmosphere.

Myrtos Beach’s dazzling white pebbles and Bombay Sapphire-blue waters caught the eye of Hollywood casting directors, who gave it a supporting role in Captain Corelli’s Mandolin. It’s around 40 minutes’ drive from Lixouri. Pull over before you start the winding descent to the beach for a postcard-perfect view of the bay.

The red sands at Xi Beach make for great natural skin treatments – you’ll often catch locals giving themselves a DIY clay mask. Sand aside, this beach also offers up a bar and taverna, and a ton of watersports like jet and water-skiing.

Very little of Kefalonia escaped the wrath of the earthquake that hit the island in 1953. The northern village of Fiskardo is the exception, though. Most of the tremor was absorbed through the bed of limestone it rests on, leaving it pretty much intact. And thankfully so, because the place is storybook-pretty. Think pastel-coloured Venetian buildings wrapped around a dinky little harbour.

You’ll need a car to get to Petani Beach on the Lixouri peninsula – it’s reached down a steep road that zig-zags from the cliff top. It’s set in a horseshoe-shaped bay, edged by a curve of sand and white shingle. There’s a couple of beachside tavernas for lunch and drinks. Hang around until the evening – the beach faces west and is a great sunset viewpoint.

Atheras Beach is tucked away in the north-west of the island, around half an hour’s drive from Lixouri. It’s a pretty spot, backed by pine-coated hills and overlooked by a teeny, blue-painted church. Bring a snorkel with you – rocks and caves mean the waters here are teeming with sea life.

Myrtos Beach isn’t considered one of the world’s finest for nothing. This swathe of sand, about a 40-minute drive from Lassi, had a starring role in Captain Corelli’s Mandolin. The road above has been widened so passing motorists can admire the view without stopping traffic. And the twisting street down to the shore is well worth the hair-raising ride – at the bottom you’re greeted with white pebbles and neon seas.

You'll probably recognise Myrtos Beach as soon as you see it – it’s one of the most photographed spots in Europe, and it had a starring role in the hit film, Captain Corelli’s Mandolin. The beach is made up of smooth white pebbles, which are backed by limestone cliffs and rinsed by waves that look like they’ve been poured straight from a bottle of Bombay Sapphire.

A 25-minute walk – or 3-minute drive – from Lixouri will bring you to Lepeda Beach’s clay-orange sands. It’s spot on for families – the water’s nice and calm, there’s a natural paddling pool that tots will love, and there’s a beachside taverna that dishes up Greek salads, meatballs and fried fish. There’s a little monastery just off the sand, too.

Kefalonia is the perfect base for exploring. With so many islands nearby, you’re spoilt for choice when it comes to days out. Search for loggerhead turtles in Zante, set sail for Ithaca, the ancient kingdom of Odysseus, or scale the heights of mountainous Lefkas. There’s Aristotle’s old stomping ground, Skorpios, to think about, too, and the island of Meganissi.

The 1953 earthquake pretty much flattened the island’s capital, but don’t let that put you off. There’s plenty to see in this terracotta-roofed city – it’s packed with tavernas, souvenir shops and leather boutiques. When lunchtime rolls around, set up camp down by the harbour, where little fishing boats bob up and down in front of restaurants serving up local delicacies.

The International Music Festival of Argostoli sees hordes of people descend on the capital to enjoy performances from Greek and international artists. Guitarists, bands and vocalists all get in on the action, and performances are staged at various spots throughout the town.