Things To Do in Kalamaki

Whether you’re after a grilled sole, kleftiko or a tender souvlaki, all bases are covered at this family-run establishment. The staff really go that extra mile with their guests – whether you need a high-chair or a special portion, nothing is too much to ask. And if you can persuade the waiters to show off their Greek dance moves, you’re in for a good time.

Zante is well-known for its delicious local wines, and this week-long festival in honour of the vine draws oenophiles from across the island. It takes place in Keri’s square, right by the lake, and goes on until the early hours, which gives everyone time to sample as many varieties on offer as possible.

The owner of this place, Kev, is a real gunslinger when it comes to the cocktail shaker. Ask him for his mint choc chip drink or a strawberry daiquiri, and enjoy your drink while taking in the views over the bay, and Megalo Vouno. The mix of music helps to create a really relaxed vibe, and people often stay here until dawn.

Neighbouring Laganas is a party capital with air hangar-sized nightclubs and back-to-back bars. Kalamaki takes it much easier with chill-out cocktail bars, family-friendly karaoke places and some teen-friendly haunts, which tempt visitors with their drinks promotions.

The road that joins Kalamaki to Laganas has a cluster of leather shops which do a fine line in ladies handbags and leather jackets. Otherwise, shopping in Kalamaki is restricted to turtle-related souvenirs – lighters, keyrings, you name it. If you’re really intent on giving your credit card a workout, the boutique-lined streets of the capital, Zante Town, are just a 10-euro taxi ride away.

Kalamaki still has the charm of an old village. You’ve got tavernas dishing up traditional Greek fare – kleftiko, moussaka, gyros – in gardens with olive groves, water features, or blossoming begonias. Look for places that have Greek nights – that means fire dances and shots of ouzo – basically the alpha and the omega of a Greek good time.

Getting to this place is part of the fun. You follow the old road and take a left, then wait for the mini 4x4 to shuttle you up the hill. The bar is built around a dinky fortress in front of a cave. It’s a bohemian kind of place with chill-out tunes and the smell of jasmine in the air. Order a gin fizz and take in the top-rate view of the Med from the turret.

This place is like something out of one of Enid Blyton’s Famous Five adventures. In 1982 a ship ran aground on the northwest of the island while bringing in a stash of cigarettes. This cove is where it’s remained ever since. Even without the wreckage, this beach is worth a visit – but bear in mind it’s only accessible by boat. Thanks to its sheer limestone cliffs and turquoise sea, it’s the real poster child for holidays in Zante.

You’ll find most of the shops on the main strip in Kalamaki – they say the baklava from the bakery here is the best on the island. If you’ve got a sweet tooth you’ll also love the local mandolato – a honey and almond nougat bar. The supermarkets have got it covered for picnicky nibbles, while the souvenir places should see you right for jewellery and pottery. The turtles put in an appearance here, too – they decorate everything from toys to tea towels.

Kalamaki is the kind of place where you’ll get a side-order of conversation with your cocktails. You’ll find plenty of these family-friendly bars about, all doing a good line in drinks and welcoming chit-chat. There’s bingo, barbecues, quiz nights and karaoke, too. You’ll find music bars as well, though it’s more chill-out tunes than chart anthems.

Beaches don’t come much sleepier than this. The place is a protected area for turtles, so noisier watersports are off-limits, though you can still pootle about on a pedalo. You’ve got a handful of snack huts nearby, but the man with the fruit and doughnuts will come to you. Arrive early to nab a sunlounger, though, as parts of the beach are just for the turtles.

Kalamaki has a bit of a reputation for the best tavernas on the island. The resort is dotted with these family-friendly places, so it’s worth rooting around the backstreets to find them. Lamb klefitko, chicken souvlaki, beef stifado – they all come lovingly home-cooked. Just try to leave some room for the baklava with pistachio ice-cream.

On the main Kalamaki to Laganas road, you’ll find F1 Go Kart. With its corners and hairpin bends, the 610-metre track should keep wannabe Jenson Buttons happy for hours. You’ve got a choice of karts for kids and adults, and there are track-side marshals to keep things safe. Afterwards you can swap race stories over crepes and ice-cream in the big snack bar.

Turtles come all the way from Africa to lay their eggs here. So you won’t find watersports or loud beach bars – just a long stretch of tightly-packed golden sand that unfurls for 5 kilometres, past Laganas, until it reaches Agios Sostis. It has sunbeds, a well-stocked beach bar and water shallow enough for the little ones. Plus, it’s a perfect spot to watch the sun go down, when the loggerhead turtles begin clambering ashore.

The stuffed village sausages and Zakynthian rabbit are both big hits at this beach-side restaurant. The bekri meze – a cheese-topped pork casserole – is even better. Free nibbles, great service, pretty good prices and a children’s area all top up the gold-star count.