Things To Do in Gerani

Gerani Beach is an expansive two and a half kilometres long, a blend of pebbles, sandy stretches and shingle – and it never gets too crowded, even at the weekends. The west side is a popular spot with endangered loggerhead turtles – they nest in its sands between May and September and if you’re lucky, you might spot some.

Gerani has a handful of shops – and a top-notch bakery for fresh pastries – but for more serious shopping, you can jump on the bus to Chania and within 20 minutes you’ll be among malls and markets. You’ll find international chains like Zara and H&M, as well as stalls selling locally crafted goods from jewellery to handbags.

Right next to Gerani – all within two to four kilometres’ reach – are sights worth seeing. Just before the village of Pano Gerani you’ll find an old monastery, while between Gerani and Manoliopoulo perches the small church of Panagia. The village of Modi is also worth a visit, famous for archaeological finds including ancient Cretan coins.

As befits a sleepy resort, nights in Gerani are laid-back. For a livelier evening, try Platanias, with its buzzy selection of bars and clubs that stay open into the early hours. Follow the pumping beats along the main street and by the waterfront – clubs Mylos and Splendid are two of the hottest spots in town.

This is a low-key place, and most of the eating opportunities centre around hotel buffets. But there are a few small local eateries to squirrel out, serving up specialities like fresh salads, cinnamon-spiced baklava and psitos – slow-cooked pork. You’ll find a broader selection in Platanias, five minutes away, which offers Indian, Chinese and Mexican, alongside traditional Greek restaurants.

The Samaria Gorge is a national park, and around 3,000 visitors come here each day to hike along its zigzag paths. If you want to do the whole thing at a leisurely pace, you’re looking at four to seven hours. You can fill up your water bottle from the springs en route, but this place doesn’t come with food, so you’ll need to bring your own.

Not surprisingly for a low-key resort, Gerani keeps things quiet in the evenings. It’s all about good food and nightcaps at the tavernas. Neighbour Platanias likes to let its hair down, though. Here you’ve got a good quota of pubs and bars plus a few discos pumping out pop classics ’til the early hours. You’ll find the action on the main street and by the waterfront.

On the road to Kissamou, this place is more Brazilian jazz bar than Greek taverna. While you’re listening to the laid-back soundtrack you can tuck into classics like moussaka, lamb chops and souvlaki – meat cooked on a skewer. The menu serves up a few curve balls, too. Try the murhammara – a walnut and red pepper dip with pomegrante – and the chocolate espresso cheesecake.

Over in Platanias, if you turn up at Eclipse during the day you can settle into one of the Fifties-style banquettes with a cold Mythos beer. In the evenings, though, the place really ramps up the fun – especially if it’s a Black Light party when all the lights are turned off. Expect a young party crowd in fancy dress, and rather a lot of dancing.

Gerani Beach gives you well over two kilometres to play with. If you’ve nabbed a sandy spot, look out for the loggerhead turtles who make their nests here. Another sight is the uninhabited island of Agio Theodori Nisida across the water. And when you want a change of scenery, you’ve got some cute little coves just on the east side of the harbour.

In summer, Chania puts on a three-month extravaganza of music, dance and theatre in venues across town. You’ll get a mixed bag of opera, ballet and Shakespeare – and although many of the performances are in Greek, the festival mood translates pretty well.