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Elli's, Harbour Front, Fiskardo

Views don’t get better than at this waterside taverna, where you can eat right on the beach and watch the moon come up over Ithaca. Food-wise, it’s all about traditional Greek dishes, like rabbit stifado, souvlaki and freshly grilled fish. As is usually the way with Greek restaurants, portions are generous, so be sure to leave room for the complimentary desserts.

Further Reading

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  • You’ve got around a dozen cafés and restaurants in Fiskardo, mostly down at the waterfront. These tend to be traditional, family-run affairs, where you’ll find typical Greek mains like lamb kleftiko – a slow-cooked, melt-in-the-mouth lamb dish, and stifado – a stew made with veal or beef, red wine and shallots. The restaurants tend to get busy, so it’s a good idea to book.

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    Theodora grew up here, and she and her mum Stella offer a warm welcome at this waterside café-bar. It’s the perfect pit stop for a coffee, ice-cold beer or cocktail – the mojitos in particular have a huge fan base. Drinks are served with small plates of nibbles, but if you’re hungry, there’s a snack menu, which includes international favourites like omelettes, crepes and club sandwiches.

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    You’ll see Robola, the local dry white wine, on every menu in town. It’s been cultivated here for more than 700 years, and must by law come from Kefalonia. So this annual three-day gala, held in Fragata’s central square, is a big deal. There’s lots and lots of free wine, along with music, dancing and grilled souvlaki on the barbecue. It’s just over an hour away.

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    A chichi town means chichi shops, and Fiskardo’s streets are lined with patisseries and artsy boutiques selling jewellery, ceramics and stylish beachwear. You’ve also got three gift shops, along with useful shops like minimarts, which stock beach toys and accessories. And for more choice, there’s always Argostoli, where you’ll find all the retail action around Lithostroto, the main shopping street.

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    Nightlife here is a low-key affair – the hotels lay on entertainment, but evenings are generally about heading down to the harbour and kicking back at a taverna with an ice-cold Mythos beer. But you’ve also got late-night bars where you can take part in Greek dancing at weekends. And there’s a small club just outside town.

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    Emblisi Beach, about a 20-minute walk from the village, is ideal for snorkelling, thanks to its clear waters and rocky coves. Or if you’d rather dive, you’ll find a couple of centres by the port. You can take your pick from reef, wreck or cave diving. Visibility can reach 40 metres here, and in the waters you can expect to see starfish, octopus and turtles.

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    There are boat trips from the harbour to neighbouring Ithaca. This is one of the least developed and most beautiful of the Greek Islands, but is probably best known for its one-time king Odysseus. You’ll arrive in Frikes, a picturesque port dotted with fishing boats. And do keep an eye on the water as you sail – chances are you’ll see dolphins and seals.

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