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Get a taste for tradition

Platanes is home to a handful of tavernas that serve up authentic Cretan food. Eat like a local and try kalitsounia – deep-fried balls of pastry stuffed with goats’ cheese. Or, for something sweet, order kataifi – pastry loaded with sticky nuts and honey. Plus, the main street is dotted with a few kebab shops, where toasted flatbreads are topped with sizzling meats and a dollop of zingy tzatziki.

Further Reading

  • Overview
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  • This is a kind of pop-up festival, where events spring up around the place over a couple of months. The theme is Greek culture so expect performances of ancient tragedies on the streets and local rock bands doing their thing on Ammos Beach. Outside of town, the party continues with food tastings in nearby villages and DJs down on Elounda Beach.

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    This isn’t so much a festival, more a very sociable way for the locals to introduce you to Cretan folklore. They get dressed up in traditional costume, put on a dance show complete with plate-smashing, then give you plenty of time to savour their food and wine. It all happens in the nearby village of Anopolis, and your hotel can arrange tickets and transport.

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    Hop in a taxi and head to Fodele Beach – it’s only five minutes from the village. The beach is split into two sections – both sandy with a few pebbles – so there’s plenty of room to grab a sunlounger or lay down a towel. You won’t even need to leave for lunch, as there are a few tavernas right on the seafront.

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    Chania has its fair share of pretty Venetian buildings. It’s probably why it’s been nicknamed the Venice of the East. You can get there in around 10 minutes, so you’ve got the whole day to cover the narrow lanes full of shops and museums. Must-see sights include the waterfront fort, lighthouse and mosque. And after, there’s a huge helping of cafés, too.

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    Malia’s Glozanie Beach is full of atmosphere, packed to the rafters with sun-seekers on loungers. The 2-kilometre stretch is knitted together by a wide-paved promenade, with a full roster of beach bars and cafés. Off-shore, there’s jet-skiing and banana boats. You can do a PADI scuba diving course, too – just ask at the scuba shops on the prom.

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    Panormo has its own mini tourist train. It might look like something from Toytown, but it’s great for getting you out and about. It can take you to local caves, an old working farm and Margarites, an ancient pottery village that’s been producing ceramics since Minoan times. You can also do short evening trips up the coast and back for just a couple of euros.

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    Maleme has a couple of supermarkets that are handy for essentials and picnic nibbles. Meanwhile, neighbouring Platanias comes with lots of tourist shops selling holiday mementos. Or there’s Chania, less than half-an-hour away. It’s got a famous indoor produce market – ask for the Agora – plus clothes shops and places selling locally-produced ceramics, jewellery and handmade rugs.

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    For a spot of retail therapy, take the 30-minute drive to the postcard-perfect port town of Aghios Nikolaos. Its selection of shops are ideal for snapping up your holiday souvenirs. This place also boasts its own crop of natural sights, including Lake Voulismeni which – legend has it – was the goddess Athena’s preferred bathing spot.

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    There’s no need to stick to just the one beach in Gouves. If you fancy a good swim, head for the calm waters of the little beach west of the harbour. Walk west along the main beach and you’ll come to some nice, private rocky areas before getting to sandy Gournes, about 20 minutes away. For a spot of splendid isolation, the far end of Analipsi beach is 10 minutes to the east.

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    It’s just a 15-minute boat ride from the harbour to Spinalonga Island, a strange place with a long history. A flat coastal path around the island takes 2 hours to walk and along the way you’ll pass through the huge 16th-century Venetian fortress. You’ll also see the eerie abandoned leper colony – the inspiration for Victoria Hislop’s book The Island – which was inhabited until 1957.

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    There’s plenty of space to unwind on the beach right next to Stalis. But if you’re looking for a bit more action, make your way along the sands in the direction of Malia. On the way, you’ll stumble across plenty of watersports huts where you can sign up to everything from waterskiing and windsurfing to snorkelling and banana boat rides. The sandside facilities here are top-notch, with lots of showers, changing rooms and even a beach gym.

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    One of the most popular boat trips from Anissaras takes you to a tiny island, known as St George’s Cave. It’s just off the shoreline, so you won’t have to travel far, and it’s a huge hit with scuba divers. Eels and octopuses occupy the craggy inlets, and there are a couple of big openings that are great for exploring. The diving conditions are beginner-friendly, so you don’t have to be a pro to give it a try.

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    Agia Marina’s long, broad band of sand is the resort’s main attraction. Its sheer size means that a spot of your own is only ever a short stroll away, even at peak times. For even more out-of-the-way options, take a 20-minute drive east to the eye-catching coves of the Akrotiri peninsula – Stavros, Marathi and Kalathas are all Blue Flag beauties.

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    There are a decent number of bars in Amoudara, but for a bigger choice, head into Heraklion. There are loads of late-night places, playing everything from Greek pop music to more mainstream stuff. Or continue a bit further along the coast to Hersonissos and Malia – both are favourites with the party-hard set.

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    Crete’s sardine-fishing heritage goes back centuries, and it’s celebrated every September in Chania. The crowds descend on Nea Chora beach, where the seafront restaurants are packed by sunset and the air is heady with the aroma of freshly grilled sardines. There’s lots of traditional dancing and live music, along with plenty of Cretan wine.

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    Get used to plenty of olive oil, which Cretans use liberally to drizzle over sun-dried string beans or to fry snails and rabbit dishes in. The most authentic Greek restaurants are hidden away in guesthouses, up in the hillside villages of Galatas and Stalos. That said, the waterfront eateries do a pretty good job with their fresh fish and seafood – lobster grilled over an open fire is just one speciality.

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    Nights out here start late and keep going ’til the early hours. You might want to begin with a cocktail at one of the laid-back waterfront bars, but as the evening goes on the buzz of the livelier drinking places is hard to resist. You’ll find these near the Rimondi Fountain and at the harbour, which is also the main hub for clubs if you’re looking to stay out and dance to Greek and mainstream pop.

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    Malia’s Glozanie Beach is full of atmosphere, packed to the rafters with sun-seekers on loungers. The 2-kilometre stretch is knitted together by a wide-paved promenade, with a full roster of beach bars and cafés. Off-shore, there’s jet-skiing and banana boats. You can do a PADI scuba diving course, too – just ask at the scuba shops on the prom.

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    The beach at Chania has stacks of sunloungers and is backed by plenty of tavernas and ice-cream stands. That makes it easy to stay put, but if you fancy a change of scene a 20-minute walk west gets you to the wind-sheltered coves of Agioi Apostoloi. And if you’re up for it, you could keep on going as far as the Blue Flag beach at Platanias, which majors in watersports.

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    Out of the resort’s trio, Star Beach wins the popularity contest. It comes with its own waterpark and a whole lot of slides and fountains. You’ve got go-karts and the town’s famous bungee rocket here, too. And somehow, it also gets in a DJ and foam parties without spoiling the family vibe.

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    On the food front, Gerani is a bit of a lightweight – but the restaurants of Platanias are only a five-minute bus ride away. The place serves up a good mix of Chinese, Mexican and Indian – and as the resort is popular with Scandinavian tourists, you’ll probably get bratwurst and herring on the menu, too. If you’re going Greek, though, tuck into marathopitas – that’s a tasty fennel pie.

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    The lively Georgioupolis square is lined with bustling tavernas and bars, so nights are far from quiet. The many drinking spots that are run by the locals are great for sitting and watching the world go by. With ancient eucalyptus trees lining its sides, the square makes for a pretty setting.

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    The Panagia is a Greece-wide festival dedicated to the Virgin Mary – but the traditional village of Mohos does itself proud with this all-out celebration. The day starts off with a solemn church service, but after that there’s a colourful procession and traditional music and dancing on the village square. And everyone’s kept happy with stalls selling barbecued pork and Retsina wine.

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    Evenings here centre on the tavernas and hotel bars, where it’s easy to relax over a few drinks after a leisurely meal. If you want to up the action, though, a 10-minute bus ride to Platanias will set you up with a good choice of lively bars and late-night discos.

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