Things To Do in Cavtat

The waterfront restaurants serve up net-fresh fish that’s come off the boat that morning. Meanwhile, in the old town you can follow the aroma of garlic, paprika and grilled meat through the meandering streets. Do look out for dishes that come cooked under the bell – this is slow-cooking Croatian-style, with cuts of lamb or octopus baked under an iron bell for up to 3 hours.

Cavtat is laid out across a peninsula, with beaches on one side and the town on the other. There’s a 2-kilometre path that streaks all the way round the promontory – take a stroll along it and pass gnarled trees, rock pools, old houses and farmland. And if you veer off onto the smaller paths leading up the hill, you’ll get a fantastic view across the Adriatic Sea.

Plod up the hill from the harbour and you’ll reach this peaceful cemetery. Aside from sweeping views of the Adriatic, what really sets this place apart is the mausoleum of the powerful Racic family. Tip-toe inside this pristine, white building and you’ll uncover detailed engravings and sculptures of angels by well-known Croatian artist, Ivan Mestrovic.

The best way to see Cavtat’s selection of private coves is on a bike – you can hire one from a hotel and go hopping from one rocky cove to another along the flat coastal path. Watersports are big here, too. There’s a centre on Setalisteza Street that offers parasailing and water-skiing, plus scuba dives to ancient underwater sites. You’ll find it at the southern end of the harbour.

Roar over the waves on a jet-ski. Lift off on a parasail. Or sink to the depths of the sea and discover sunken ships and buried Roman treasure. If you’re up for trying some watersports, you’ll find no shortage of options in Cavtat. Your first stop should be the beach next to Hotel Croatia – it’s got the best choice of watersports in this neck of the woods.

When night falls, the whole of Cavtat heads to the harbour. There are bars with cellars full of Croatian wines, others with cocktail lists the length of your arm, and DJs spinning tunes. But if seclusion is the order of the day, try the ramshackle spots on the Rat peninsula – the more easterly of Cavtat’s 2 peninsulas. You’ll know what Robison Crusoe felt like here.

The pick of the tables at this little quayside restaurant are out on the patio, overlooking the bay – pull up a pew here and you’ll get the best views come sunset. This is one of the cheaper places to eat along this stretch, and the menu covers staples like lobster, grilled sea bass and seafood risotto. Look out for Nesco, the owner – he’ll welcome you like you’ve been best mates for years.

There’s a great line-up of restaurants in the harbour. The fish here is freshly plucked from the sea and usually arrives on your plate before it’s had time to blink. Stuffed calamari, sea bass baked in salt, and seafood linguine are just some of the dishes you can expect to find. Some places even offer fishing trips, so you get to catch your own dinner before getting it cooked.

Know your Chablis from your Chianti? Then you’ll want to sample the Croatian vintages at this wine bar by the waterfront. The wine list is as long as your arm, with everything from Merlot to Istrian varieties. And every Wednesday night a live jazz provides a suitably chilled-out soundtrack.

The Bugenvila is the most popular restaurant in Cavtat, so it’s wise to book ahead. Friendly and attentive waiters bring you a complimentary dish of juicy olives, cheese and capers. The menu here ranges from slow-cooked meat dishes to full seafood platters, with truffle-scented pastas and grills in between. The local rosé wine is a must-try – as is their semifreddo dessert made with vanilla gelato.

The promenade is the place to pick up everything from artisan ceramics to novelty ashtrays. And as you’re wandering the streets, do stop to look at the vendors selling silk Konavle embroidery – they come here from nearby Cilipi, where the garments are handmade. There are decorative tablecloths, bookmarks, pincushions, and pillow cases with kaleidoscope patterns.

Wander along the prom and you’ll pass clusters of local women selling embroidered tablecloths, purses, cushions and scarves. They use silk to weave traditional Croatian patterns that have been handed down from generation to generation – perfect if you’re after an authentic souvenir.

Fancy hearing local folk musicians? Or watching magicians and jugglers at work? The Cavtat Summer Festival lays on a top programme of events, right by the waterfront – one night it might be a classical music show, another a dance troupe. And the best thing of all? It’s all completely free.