Buy spices and suits in Margao
Along the main road there are shops with bargain handbags, plus a little shopping centre where you can pick up Kashmir shawls and traditional Indian dress. There’s also a daily market in Margao, 30 minutes’ drive away. It’s a tightly-packed spectacle where spices are sold from hemp sacks and chillies hang from the wall in huge bunches. In this part of Margao you can also get fitted for a tailored suit – head back in 3 days to pick it up.Cavelossim village is well worth dragging yourself away from the beach for. In the morning, stalls sell homemade rolls and fresh fruit – perfect for a healthy breakfast. The village itself is small, and stretches between the beach and the river. Don’t miss Santa Cruz – it’s a pretty church in an even prettier square. Towards the river, fishermen load salted catfish into Jenga-like stacks, and scale ladders to fix up their boats.
Read MoreCavelossim dining is Goan with a Portuguese twist. Grilled kingfish and prawn curry are popular, or you could try the sanna rice cakes and feijoda, a bean and pork stew. And the channa doss, a Goan-style marzipan, rounds things off nicely. You’ll find open-air restaurants along the main road, but the beach shacks along the water are usually busiest. The decor is simple and cheerful – think plastic furniture and lights hanging from tin roofs.
Read MoreThere’s no such thing as running out of space on Cavelossim’s beach – it’s a whopping 2 kilometres long. It stays pretty uncongested wherever you go, and there are plenty of secluded spots to be found if you want total privacy. Sit back on the sands and you might even be treated to a view of dolphins frolicking on the waves.
Read MoreFor those in need of their historical fix, Cabo de Rama is well worth the scenic 40-minute drive south. Legend has it that Lord Rama, who starred in the famous Hindu epic, Ramayana, sheltered at this fort with his wife when they were in exile. Battle-scarred and crumbling, it offers absolute peace and fab views.
Read MoreShigmo is what Goans call the Hindu festival Holi – and one of the biggest celebrations in Goa happens in Margao, 30 minutes’ drive away. It’s a wild one-day party that centres on the procession – giant floats roll through the town led by traditional dancers and bands of drummers. Remember to wear old clothes, though, because after the procession the colourful powder comes out and gets flung around the huge crowds.
Read MoreCavelossim Beach really pulls out all the stops on the watersports front. The centre on the sand lets you book paragliding, banana boats and kayaking, with calm sea waters making for a smooth ride. For a different sort of activity, take a short stroll to the north of the beach where you can find a secluded spot under the shade of a palm tree.
Read MoreThe Sal River runs along the town’s eastern edge, and you can sign up for a boat trip with one of the companies along the main road. Hop aboard and you’ll wind through paddy fields and little fish farms, with mangroves and palm trees lining the way. And do keep your eyes open for fruit bats, egrets and kingfishers in the trees.
Read MoreAlong the water there’s a handful of beach shacks with parties out on the sand – chilled-out music plays over the speakers and there’s Kingfisher beer on ice. It’s a relaxed atmosphere that goes well into the night. For a change of scene you could drive 30 minutes to Benaulim for the waterside discos and bars. A popular drink here is the feni mojito, the classic cocktail made with the local cashew apple liqueur.
Read MoreThere’s a quietly luxurious side to Cavelossim. Indian celebs love it here, so luxury hotels are popping up everywhere, along with drop-in spa centres. Most places are hemmed by the beach and the wide river, so it’s easy to find a place that’ll treat you to a massage with a view. And, of course, there are plenty of tropical cocktails to be squeezed in between treatments.
Read MoreThe homely Jazz Inn does every type of live music going, but has a fondness for jazz, blues and reggae. If you happen to be here in March, the place takes part in the Goa Music Festival. The food is tasty too, and the bar is all lit up with fairy lights. It’s a popular place, so those in the know arrive nice and early.
Read MoreThis T-shirt-and-sandals beach bar has been on the same spot for 16 years – and it’s always had that beach-bum vibe. Kingfisher and Cobra beer are behind the bar, while a popular drink is lemonade mixed with feni, a local liqueur made from cashew apples. Wednesday night is beach party night, so do pop by for the Indian dancers, and the fireworks and bonfires on the sand.
Read MoreCavelossim isn’t big on festivals. It’s too laidback for full moon parties, and only really celebrates Christmas and New Year – quietly. Don’t despair, though – an all-year festival atmosphere is provided by the beach shacks. Beach parties have a habit of involving fireworks, fire dancers and jumbo bonfires.
Read MoreThe Blue Whale is a relaxed beach shack with seating out on the sand and a thatched roof overhead. A little breeze cools the place down and coconut trees line the dining area. The food is hearty Goan fare, like spicy kingfish curry and khatkhate – a pumpkin, potato and corn curry. The bar has Indian beers like Old Monk, and you can finish off the meal with bebinca, a sweet Goan pudding.
Read MoreIt doesn’t get much more romantic than this – dinner on the River Sal, all lit up by lamps, with a backdrop of fishing boats. The must-try dish is the Goan speciality, sausage pulao – it’s a bit like paella, but spicier. It’s best washed down with the house special – a blueberry margarita.
Read MoreMost food in Cavelossim is served up from surfer-style beach shacks. The menus are mouthwatering – and it’s seafood all the way. These shacks have a habit of becoming a second home, especially when they welcome you in with names like Mike’s Place, Betty’s Place, and Sam’s Shack. If surfing’s your thing, some places even rent out boards so you can catch some evening waves.
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