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Restaurante Convento das Vinhas, Sitio do Convento

This hilltop restaurant is worth the climb for the sunset view alone. When you’ve got your puff back, you can have a chat with the maitre d’, who’ll recommend a good Portuguese wine. As for the food, the fish is the star. You can either choose from what’s been freshly caught that day, or go for one of the menu regulars like the local mussels or cod stew.

Further Reading

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  • Travel Advice
  • Calheta’s twin beaches may be small, but they’re big on watersports. You’ve got canoeing, waterskiing, windsurfing and scuba diving to give a go. Over at the marina, meanwhile, you can book up for big-game fishing or join a boat trip out to see dolphins and whales.

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    When it comes to food, Calheta is all about the freshly-netted fish. For a change from cod and chips, try the black scabbard fish with banana and passion fruit or the local speciality cataplanas – fish steamed with parsley and olive oil. Get to the marina early for a ring-side seat and you can watch the yacht brigade moor up for the night while you eat.

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    In Calheta, the nightlife is all about settling in for a relaxing meal and a quiet drink. And as you’re in Madeira, it would be rude not to have a glass of, well, Madeira. The small bars by the marina should see you right, and you might also want to try the other local drink, poncho – made from lemons and the local sugar cane.

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    The Tate Modern comes to Calheta – sort of. Perched on a clifftop, the town’s Casa das Mudas art gallery is a triumph of grey walls and sharp lines – though the knockout island views blow the London gaffe out of the water. Inside, Dalí and Bacon battle it out for wall space.

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    Calheta doesn’t come out fighting on the retail front – it’s just a supermarket and gift shop here. If you fancy a walk up the hill, Estreito do Calheta deals up a few more shops and a nice little bakery. Or you might want to head 20 minutes south to Ribeira Brava – the mini-malls here are chock-a-block with clothes and leather goods.

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    Over in Funchal, everything’s coming up daisies at this annual, 4-day flower festival. The Royal Horticultural Show’s got nothing on this place – the capital goes all out with streets carpeted in every bloom you can think of plus a parade of locals dressed up as giant flowers. You’ll also get music, dancing and variety shows – but, really, it’s all about the orchids.

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    Part of Hotel Calheta Beach, this contemporary beachfront bar has a mellow, laid-back vibe. You can sit by the pool and watch the action over on the sand, or sit under the gazebo where it’s all soft drapes and squishy chairs. When it comes to cocktails and snacks, you might just want to have those on repeat order.

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