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Spice up your holiday in Savoi

Goan cuisine uses lots of spices, and you can learn how they’re grown at the Savoi Spice plantation, a 200-year-old organic farm about 40 minutes away in the Ponda area. A guided walking tour clues you up on cinnamon, cardamom, clove and nutmeg, after which you’ll be treated to a buffet of traditional Goan Saraswat cuisine served in mud pots.

Further Reading

  • Overview
  • Travel Advice
  • There are a few places to rent bikes on Arossim Beach. Whizzing down the beach is bliss, especially since there’s barely anyone to zigzag around. Heading east towards the Western Ghats, things start to get a tad hillier. But before that you’ll hit the wide paddy fields – they’re super peaceful spots that are perfect for a picnic.

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    Arossim Beach’s nightlife is low-key by Goan standards, so the hotels take charge of things in the evening with entertainment covering karaoke, live bands and African dancers. Or you might want to take a 10-minute drive to Colva – here, there’s a small selection of bars and beach shacks where you can dance to the beat of techno and Indian ragga.

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    Arossim Beach is pleasantly crowd-free, so you’ll easily find a sunbathing spot. There’s also plenty of room to manoeuvre when it comes to watersports. The best time of year to give jet-skiing, sailing, windsurfing and parasailing a go is October to March, and you’ll find equipment and tuition at the Park Hyatt Goa Resort and Spa.

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    The bigger hotels have in-house jewellers, where you can even design your own pieces. Meanwhile, local vendors outside the hotels sell spices, bags and clothes. And at Margao – 20 minutes away – there’s a covered market that stretches from the main square to the old railway station. It’s a vibrant place to shop – stalls of freshly-caught fish mingle with crockery, silks and shoes.

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    Visitors love the Mango Terrace – to the point that you’ll have to book at least 2 nights in advance. The décor is modern contemporary, but the food’s authentically Indian, with a seafood slant – lobster, crab and prawns all star on the menu. Say if it’s your birthday, or another special occasion, and they’ll spoil you with champagne, flowers and cake.

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    Okay, so technically this shack is set on neighbouring Utorda Beach, but it’s still only a stone’s throw away from Arossim. It’s very much a cold-beer-in-hand, sand-between-your-toes type of place. Rather than being tucked away with the resorts, it’s right on the beach and has panoramic views. It’s no surprise this one attracts the sunset-watchers.

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    The hotel menus globetrot their way through Chinese, Italian, Mexican and, of course, Indian. And Goan cuisine is big on fish and rice, so if you’re eating at the local cafés in the village expect plenty of that, along with shrimp curry and kingfish cake, made with tomatoes, chillis, garlic and ginger. And do remember the beach shacks – they may look rustic, but the lobster and prawns are super fresh.

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    The Starfish might look like a rustic beach shack, but owner Anthony runs it with city-slicker style. You can eat here – the menu covers everything from Brit classics to net-fresh lobster, and all of it cooked to order. But this place is really about kicking back with a cold beer and watching the unbeatable sunsets.

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    Bearing gifts, they’ve travelled afar – well, from Arossim, Cansaulim and Quelim. During this festival, one boy from each of the three villages gets to be king for the day, complete with a huge crown and a decorated donkey. This post-Christmas feast is celebrated by Christians and Hindus from all over Goa with equal enthusiasm. After a hilltop mass, the procession arrives at Cansaulim Church around mid-afternoon. Expect brass bands, singing and lots of flag-waving.

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    These beaches are made for walking – and that’s just what you’ll do. The further you walk south, the livelier the beaches. A 20-minute walk will lead you through Utorda. Dolphins have a habit of skipping across the waves near this beach, so keep your eyes peeled. Even further south is Colva, one of South Goa’s most developed resorts. Come full moon, you might even stumble across one of its legendary beach parties.

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    Old Goa has been christened a UNESCO World Heritage Site, so you’ll be tripping over things to see. Once upon a time, this was Goa’s Portuguese capital, and it’s a nearly two-kilometre stretch jam-packed with churches, monasteries and cathedrals. If you see only one thing, let it be the Basilica de Bom Jesus. It’s huge, and home to the remains of Goa’s patron saint, Francis Xavier. Handily, Old Goa’s offerings are all just a 20-minute drive north.

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    Top-notch resorts haven’t overrun Arossim Beach – it’s more like a handful has sprung up organically. Luckily, quality hotels mean quality spas. Just beyond the beach, Heritage Village Hotel’s spa specialises in traditional Indian Ayurvedic massage – that’s the one that uses herbs and plants and focuses on pressure points. It’s all topped off with a cup of zingy ginger tea that’ll wake you right up.

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