Things To Do in Aghia Marina

A gentle 15-minute climb into the old village brings you to this ivy-clad restaurant. Manolis and family have been serving their brand of traditional Greek food for over 30 years – the sure sign of a winning recipe. Pull up a chair and tuck into house specials like rabbit stifado or briam – a layered dish of oven-roasted courgette, aubergine and tomato.

From nearby Chania you can take a glass-bottomed boat trip out to the isle of Agii Theodori. Once a military base, the now uninhabited island is a sanctuary for the protected kri kri – a rare Cretan goat. The place is off-limits to 2-legged visitors, but as you sail around it you’ll see the remains of an old chapel and a duo of 16th-century forts.

Beautifully presented cocktails keep everyone happy at the Ocean Beach Bar. The place is great for day-time lazing on one of the sun chairs around the large swimming pool, though it’s equally popular in the evenings for sunset views over the sea and Theodorou Island.

Set in one of Aghia Marina’s back streets, Nymfi comes with a shaded garden and friendly staff. Menu wise, you can expect some great traditional dishes, including the cheese saganaki starter and mains of chicken souvlaki and lamb with yoghurt. And there’s usually a free glass of raki to round things off.

At this beachfront bar, you can settle in under a straw parasol for a cocktail, or wash down the sea views with a beer on the wooden decking. It’s a stay-all-day kind of place that does a good sideline in pizza and ice-cream. After dark, the spirits start pouring and the tunes crank up a gear.

There’s plenty here to tempt those in search of authentic Greek food. Aghia Marina’s waterfront is decked out with tavernas serving up traditional dishes such as moussaka, skewered lamb and swordfish steak. Crisp local wines do the food justice, and a slice of sticky baklava is often the only way to end an evening.

The sweep of beach at Aghia Marina is impressive, but it isn’t the only one in the area. Platanias Beach, on the doorstep, is 4 kilometres long with all the watersports and a livelier vibe. And 20 minutes’ drive will take you to the small, enclosed sandy cove at Stavros, which was used as a location in Zorba the Greek.

Glass-bottom boat trips are popular here, and a favourite trip is just across from Aghia Marina to Theodorou Island. You won’t be able to step ashore, as the island is now exclusively reserved as a sanctuary for the rare kri-kri goat. But from the boat you’ll see what’s left of two 16^th-century forts and an old chapel as you sail around it.

Barnacled with beachside tavernas, Agia Marina’s waterfront is the place to go for no-nonsense Greek cooking. Tuck into meaty treats like moussaka and flame-grilled lamb with minted yogurt. Afterwards, the friendly owners will probably invite you to join them in a glass of raki – the lively local firewater.

If you’re looking for holiday mementos, Aghia Marina comes up trumps with shops stocked with hand-crafted souvenirs and jewellery. The fresh-pressed Cretan olive oil is a popular gift to take back home, as is the local plonk. Look out for reds that are labelled with the names Nostos or Douraki – 2 island wineries that really know their stuff.

Aghia Marina and Platanias both step up a gear in the evening. The 2 villages are so close together you can’t really tell where one ends and the other begins, except perhaps by sound. Moving west along the main road that joins them you’ll find Platanias is more vibrant. For late-night dancing, Eclipse, Tropicana and Splendid are among the places to be seen in.

A 10-minute walk west along the main road and you’re at Agia Marina’s party-loving alter ego, Platanias. What you’ve got here is a boisterous line-up of pubs, music bars and karaoke places with a few discos thrown in for good measure. Wherever you go, though, you’ll likely be dancing to pop, techno, hip hop and rock ’til the early hours.

For one day each August, Chania’s normally tranquil Halepa district is invaded by hordes of hard rock fans. This annual moshathon sees the best of Greek metal go head-bang to head-bang with big-name international outfits like WASP and Grave Digger. Get along early if you want to catch the up-and-coming local bands as they tend to be on warm-up duty.

It’s easy to while away a morning in the handful of local shops. Freshly-pressed Cretan olive oil, embroidery and pottery bought from here all make great reminders of your holiday. Meanwhile, Chania mixes designer shops, markets and the famous Leather Lane. Just off the main Skrydloff Street, this strip is packed with places selling belts, sandals, wallets, handbags and stivania, traditional Cretan boots.