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La Palma holidays are more than a bit off the beaten track – think volcanic countryside and grade-A stargazing.

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Nothing whispers under-the-radar quite like Spain's La Palma. It’s neighbours with Tenerife, but that’s practically where the similarities end. This place has stuck with the natural look, with just a handful of settlements and hotels nosing out from the banana plantations and pine-covered hills. Even the bigger towns, like Santa Cruz de la Palma and Puerto Naos, are cut from a classic Canary Island cloth.

Volcanic scenery

The beaches more than hint towards the island’s volcanic backstory – they’re black-sand stretches and some proudly wave a Blue Flag award, too. Away from the volcanic sands, the peaks of Teneguia and San Antonio steal the spotlight in the south, while the pine-clad Caldera de Taburiente National Park dominates the northern landscape. Hiking trails are threaded along the Cumbre Vieja ridge, with Insta-worthy views at every angle. Call in at the village of Fuencaliente and you can hike the hillside trails down to a hundred-year-old lighthouse.

Starry nights

La Palma’s home to one of the world’s largest telescopes. Observatories peek above the clouds on the island’s ridge-like spine, ready to show off their skills when the sun goes down. It’s all thanks to the glassy sky, which is so clear after dark that the stargazing conditions are among the best on the planet. UNESCO's slapped a protected tag on the entire island, making it a biosphere reserve from top to toe.

At a Glance

  • Hit the beach at Puerto Naos
  • Hike along a volcanic trail
  • Visit the traditional village of Fuencaliente
  • Prep for your trip with our Holiday Extras

Best time to go to La Palma

They don’t call this isle ‘the land of eternal spring’ for nothing – it’s a suntrap all year round. In fact, the temperatures don’t stray far from 20˚C whenever you choose to visit. The summer months can creep up to the high 20s and, in winter, the mercury rarely dips below 17 degrees.

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Top things to see and do in La Palma

This island beauty is one of the smallest Canaries, but it’s got some first-rate beaches on offer. Don’t come expecting golden sands – it’s a volcanic spot, so things are dark and mysterious. There are year-round sea breezes here, so it’s a top pick for watersports like wind and kite surfing.

The beach at Los Cancajos is by far the most popular stretch. It’s made up of three bays, all with the Blue Flag seal of approval. The sands are black and volcanic, the seas are clear and great for snorkelling, and the beaches come complete with postcard views across to Tenerife and La Gomera. There are also loads of watersports on offer, a playground for the kids and a generous helping of bars and restaurants.

For a more out-the-way spot, try La Zamora Beach, 15 minutes’ drive from Fuencaliente. It’s a pretty rugged stretch – all black sand, pebbles and craggy cliffs – but it’s usually deserted, so if you prefer to have the sand to yourself, this is the place. There’s not much in the way of facilities, though, so pack a picnic if you’re staying for the day.

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Santa Cruz is a 40-minute drive from Fuencaliente, and home to the 100-year-old Mercado Muncipal. This indoor market runs from 7am until 2pm Monday to Saturday, and is fantastic for fresh produce like goats' cheese, traditional pastries and wine. Los Cancajos is a similar distance, and at its flea market on Saturday mornings you can pick up everything from flowers to pottery. You'll find it at the south end of the seafront.

Browse the shops in Santa Cruz and you'll find some selling hand-crafted cigars. Made half-an-hour down the road in Mazo, they're cheaper than the ones from Havana but just as good. Plus, they were supposedly a favourite of Churchill himself. The Centro de Artesania in Fuencaliente is a top spot for handicrafts – it's open every weekday until 6pm and you can pick up local trinkets like embroidered fabrics, decorative tapestries and hand-woven baskets.

As you'd expect on such a small island, designer labels aren’t big news. The locals nip over to Tenerife to get their high-end fix. That said, you will find some more high-end stores in the cobbled shopping streets of Santa Cruz's centre. There are a few boutiquey places spread around Calle O' Daly, too, which is better-known locally as Calle Real.

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La Palma isn't big on neon nightlife, but head for Centro Commercial in Los Cancajos and you'll find some lively bars to bring the party vibes. The new marina in Santa Cruz is also a good bet for bars with a bit of buzz about them. For something different, try a DIY wine tour. Fuencaliente, Puntagorda, Tijarafe and Teneguina all have their own unique varieties to go and sample – just make sure you thank your designated driver.

Easy evenings are what La Palma does best. Places like Fuencaliente have a bunch of low-key restaurants and bars in town, while the hotels will normally have their own entertainment on offer, too. If you want to head further afield, take the 40-minute drive to Santa Cruz and try wandering down Avenida Maritima. This seafront stretch has a good few family-friendly cafés and restaurants to pick from.

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The name of this starter means 'old clothes' and it's so hearty, it's sometimes served as a main. The dish has a hefty mix of potatoes, chickpeas, ham, tomatoes, meat and eggs. Originally a dish for using up leftovers, it got so popular that it spread around the world. You'll find versions in Cuba and the Dominican Republic.

You can't open a menu in La Palma without seeing a fish dish – the island is surrounded by the sea, after all. One of the best has to be sancocho, a slow-cooked stew of salty fish, veg and potatoes. The type of fish varies by restaurant and depends on what's been caught, but it’s often sea bass or halibut.

Goat meat is a popular choice on menus in La Palma, thanks to its super rich flavour. Cabrito frito is seasoned and deep-fried goat's meat and, while every restaurant will have its own version of this dish, it often comes on the bone. If so, do as the locals do – ditch the table manners and use your fingers.

When you browse the dessert section, this is probably the one that will stand out. It's a cone-shaped stick made of traditional Canarian flour and sugar cane syrup, with extras like almonds, cinnamon and lemon added to give it some flavour. You can get chocolate, milk and coconut versions, too.

Europeans first settled on La Palma 500 years ago and it wasn't long before they planted vineyards. Pretty soon afterwards, La Palma became famous for its strong, sweet wine – it's been namechecked by the likes of Shakespeare and Byron. It's traditionally a dessert wine, but locals also drink it on its own. Bottoms up…

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